Holiday part 2

So from the point of leaving the lovely “Old Town” Mombasa, I launched myself onto a bus named deception. I bought a cheapo ticket to go to Lamu and found myself on this, surprisingly, fantastic looking bus....to another great surprise, I found myself the sole occupant of the back 5 seats. AMAZING! A comfortable night bus with the ability to lay flat and sleep?! This is an early Christmas day miracle.

However, I soon found out why this bus would be named deception. As we flew down the less-than-desirable Kenya back roads, I could feel every bone in my body rattle and every organ just barely stay put in it's respective place. The floor boards were nearly rattling loose, something above and to the back of me sounded like it was ready to fly off. At one point, when I was able to trick my tired body into sleep, I awoke to find myself a foot and a half off the bench seat...only to be slammed back down in a less coddling way.

Don't worry, it only continued like this for an additional 7.5 hrs.

Wow, I made it. I think?

At 430am we stopped and told, “LAMU!” I stepped off the bus (understandably confused and groggy) to find myself on a random pier in the pitch dark. I was told to head towards the end and I would find a boat to take me to the actual island of Lamu. Didn't have much of a choice at this point.

I did find said boat and made myself comfortable as we waited for departure. The boat was this old 30ft rickety wooden boat with this stinky, loud diesel engine situated right in the middle of it. Once we were all sufficiently smoked out and got moving, the 40+ passengers and luggage motored our way across to Lamu.

Travel weary passengers on our boat to Lamu

The arrival was honestly amazing though. The sun was rising over the bay and traditional dhows were quietly sailing by. Lamu came into sight and the beautiful front of old Swahili buildings were illuminated by the sun.

Traditional dhow for an early morning sail

Lamu is a historic, primarily Muslim port town dating back to the 1400s. The beauty of this small town is that this history is alive and well. Unlike “historic” areas in the States, where buildings are purposely restored and restricted, Lamu is a fully functioning city amidst the narrow corridors and old buildings, forts, and mosques. Additionally, no motor vehicles are allowed besides an old school Land Rover ambulance and one motorbike for the councilor. Otherwise, the alleyways are populated with donkeys carrying goods and people. Really neat sight.

Town square in front of the old fort

I met up with Peace Corps volunteers that I knew were staying in Lamu for their own holiday. Meg, a science teacher in a nearby secondary school, is who I had previously met back in Karungu weeks prior and learned we were going to be in Lamu at the same time. Really kind to invite me back to their place and meet everyone.

The PC was staying in this cool house, tucked away in the alleys behind the town square and fort. Unnamed, an ornate wooden door was the only clue you were at the right place. Upon entering, the foyer was casually decorated with traditional Swahili carvings and pottery. It wasn't seemingly decorated to impress mzungus but seemed to naturally acquired its character over time. The entire house was three stories with various terraces and open air rooms. The center was fitted with a fantastic atrium with palm trees and other flowering plants. Beds were semi-private, tucked in various corners and nooks. A true commodity was a functioning kitchen and bathroom (with flush toilets and shower). However, the truly incredible part was that I could stay here for only 600ks/night (ie 6.80 USD/night)!!!!

Common area, open air

Decorations throughout the house

Beautiful atrium in the house

Entrance to the house from foyer

Intricate lintel; "dhow eye" hangs above doorway, symbolizing good luck

I stayed a total of 2 days and was lucky to enjoy some really nice outings. One of the volunteers knew some locals that owned a dhow and had this whole cruise, beach excursion, fish fry all set up. That afternoon we sailed out to some of the remote beaches, dove into the incredibly warm Indian ocean, and then began preparing the delicious fresh fish for dinner. We enjoyed dinner on this “floating bar” which was this makeshift barge with little thatched huts on top that conveniently had a bar for anyone interesting in sailing out there. Dinner was incredible and we of course delighted in Tusker.

PC volunteers, Meg is second on the right.

View of boat while motoring towards the remote beaches

Anchored. Time to swim!

Raising the sails. "Am not afraid of storms" 

Old fort at mouth of port

Capt. Rick sailing the dhow. So much fun.

Fish fry. SO GOOD.

Sailing into the sunset. I could get used to this.

Dance party at the floating bar!

The next day I was able to wander through Lamu's labyrinth of a town, sufficiently getting lost but seeing some excellent areas.

From the pier

Preparing to head out to sea. Kenyan proud.

The oh-so narrow alleyways that comprises Lamu

Little Lamu buddy. Curious to have his picture taken
(note mob of children charging from the right...I escaped just in time)

Reaching the market district.

Brilliant mosque.
I loved how the Muslim prayers
 hauntingly floated through the alleys in the evening.

Little village tucked away behind the actual town of Lamu

String of donkeys carrying goods to town

Hands down, Lamu was my favorite part of the vacation and I would return without second thought. I loved the culture, the feeling of stepping back in time, and the peaceful nature of how Lamu functions and the beautiful beaches.

Oh and that statement has extra gravity being that it took 28 hrs of bus travel from Lamu back to the mission hospital. Yeah, obviously Lamu must have been pretty awesome.